The Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda
Posted by Paul Rowe, Oct 2020, HCMC.
Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda was built in 1720. The low, smoky building sits quietly off a busy street in Vo Gap district (HCMC) and is easily overlooked. It is a fascinating, friendly place. Inside are many active and well maintained shrines. Outside is an old wooden bell tower. In the back yard is a delightful intricately hand-carved teak shrine, and an tomb topped with a tall, Chinese inscribed column. The monks and their families are helpful, but do not expect any English.
Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda is frequented only by locals in the community. Most Vietnamese these days like to be seen praying at bigger, newer, shinier, and hopefully, luckier temples.
It is only on special festive days that this 300 year old pagoda is crowded with worshippers.
Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda is rare!
Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda is frequented only by locals in the community. Most Vietnamese these days like to be seen praying at bigger, newer, shinier, and hopefully, luckier temples.
It is only on special festive days that this 300 year old pagoda is crowded with worshippers.
Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda is rare!
Before I reveal more of this fascinating old place, I want to tell you a story about events which happened here two and a half centuries ago, which helped form what we now know as Vietnam.
THE STORY
THE GOOD MONKS OF SẮC TỨ TRƯỜNG THỌ PAGODA
A 300 year old temple with an exciting, dangerous history.
I have just spent the morning at a 300 year old pagoda. Being so old is reason enough for interest, but I also know that this pagoda has a special place in Vietnam’s history, and it holds a very special ancient artifact.
If you know where to look, in the small, dark, smoky interior of the pagoda you will find a carved wooden plaque. It is a royal plaque. There are no dates, names or stories on the plaque. To understand this easily overlooked plaque, in this easily overlooked pagoda, you have to know some Vietnamese history.
*
I have just spent the morning at a 300 year old pagoda. Being so old is reason enough for interest, but I also know that this pagoda has a special place in Vietnam’s history, and it holds a very special ancient artifact.
If you know where to look, in the small, dark, smoky interior of the pagoda you will find a carved wooden plaque. It is a royal plaque. There are no dates, names or stories on the plaque. To understand this easily overlooked plaque, in this easily overlooked pagoda, you have to know some Vietnamese history.
*
Things happened at this pagoda before Vietnam was even called Vietnam.
It happened well before this part of the world belonged to Vietnam.
Ownership of this fertile part of the world was in transition – some might describe it as pioneer country.
It happened well before this part of the world belonged to Vietnam.
Ownership of this fertile part of the world was in transition – some might describe it as pioneer country.
Chùa Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ (chùa = pagoda or temple, Chinese community) was opened 300 years ago in 1720.
Back then, this place was wild and dangerous. Most of the land was covered in jungle wilderness, while ruthless, bloody warlords battled for power and ownership of the fertile rice-growing land.
The ancient shrine today is within Ho Chi Minh mega city. But 300 years ago it was a long way from anywhere. Ben Nghe (one day to become Saigon) a smallish, busy trading port on the edge of the Saigon River was 7 kilometres as the crow flies away; probably twice that distance via jungle trails.
**
Back then, this place was wild and dangerous. Most of the land was covered in jungle wilderness, while ruthless, bloody warlords battled for power and ownership of the fertile rice-growing land.
The ancient shrine today is within Ho Chi Minh mega city. But 300 years ago it was a long way from anywhere. Ben Nghe (one day to become Saigon) a smallish, busy trading port on the edge of the Saigon River was 7 kilometres as the crow flies away; probably twice that distance via jungle trails.
**
50 years after Chùa Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ was opened (1777), the Tay Son’s Hissing Army attacked Ben Nghe.
Their goal was to annihilate the Nguyen royal family who ruled Ben Nghe and the Mekong delta.
Their attack was bloody and almost successful.
A 15-year-old prince, Nguyen Phuc Anh, survived the massacre and escaped!
Their goal was to annihilate the Nguyen royal family who ruled Ben Nghe and the Mekong delta.
Their attack was bloody and almost successful.
A 15-year-old prince, Nguyen Phuc Anh, survived the massacre and escaped!
The teen prince knew that safety and his family’s allies were in the south, in the vastness of the Mekong delta region. HOWEVER, he chose to ran to the north west (in almost the opposite direction to his perceived safety).
The clever prince knew to seek help and shelter from the good monks at remote Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda, before committing to a plan to head southward to safety.
**
The clever prince knew to seek help and shelter from the good monks at remote Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda, before committing to a plan to head southward to safety.
**
The teen prince turned out to be a teen warrior also. He did more than just hide deep in the Mekong delta; he gathered a small army and headed back to Ben Nghe. Within a few months, the sole Nguyen survivor had retaken Ben Nghe. His actions declared to the Tay Sons that the Nguyens were back!
Across the next decade the Tay Sons and their Hissing Army seized Ben Nghe five (?) times. The prince took refuge with the monks at Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda before heading southwards.
In 1802 Lord Nguyen Anh finally defeated the Tay Sons, the Trinhs and the Emperor. He become Emperor Gia Long and he named his conquest, Vietnam.
The new Emperor did not forget the good monks who helped him 30 years before. He presented Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda with his royal plaque to say “thank you” to the monks who helped an orphaned teen in desperate and dangerous times.
You can visit this ancient temple and see that plaque today.
**
Across the next decade the Tay Sons and their Hissing Army seized Ben Nghe five (?) times. The prince took refuge with the monks at Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda before heading southwards.
In 1802 Lord Nguyen Anh finally defeated the Tay Sons, the Trinhs and the Emperor. He become Emperor Gia Long and he named his conquest, Vietnam.
The new Emperor did not forget the good monks who helped him 30 years before. He presented Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda with his royal plaque to say “thank you” to the monks who helped an orphaned teen in desperate and dangerous times.
You can visit this ancient temple and see that plaque today.
**
END OF STORY
**Another Paul's History Mystery ahead!
But, did the teen warrior really seek shelter from the good monks in 1777?
Yes, he sheltered at Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda between 1777 and 1790ish,
but at the moment I do not have the exact details.
I would like to know,
~ how many times did the good monks help him?
and,
~ what year or years did he seek refuge?
This has all the makings of another History Mystery.
Can you help solve this mystery?
Yes, he sheltered at Sắc Tứ Trường Thọ pagoda between 1777 and 1790ish,
but at the moment I do not have the exact details.
I would like to know,
~ how many times did the good monks help him?
and,
~ what year or years did he seek refuge?
This has all the makings of another History Mystery.
Can you help solve this mystery?
The above schematic simply explains this History Mystery.
We need to fill in the five blue dialogue bubbles with dates of Tay Son raids, and Anh's visits to the pagoda.
Good luck everyone!
[email protected] Thank you.
We need to fill in the five blue dialogue bubbles with dates of Tay Son raids, and Anh's visits to the pagoda.
Good luck everyone!
[email protected] Thank you.
Thank you Khang for highlighting this pagoda for me.
Thanks Hue and Thắm for interpreting and assisting at my second pagoda visit.
Thanks Hue and Thắm for interpreting and assisting at my second pagoda visit.
I have made sure NOT to show you all of this interesting and historic shrine. Can you discover the second royal plaque? When you visit, make sure to explore the back yard! I would also recommend that you give yourself enough time to walk the length of the lane. The locals are friendly. Buy a drink and sit awhile. Go Vap is a very pleasant district.
Posted by Paul Rowe, Oct, 2020, HCMC, Vietnam.
VIETNAM HISTORY, CULTURE
AND OTHER GOOD STUFF.
AND OTHER GOOD STUFF.